Art Basel Opens to the Public as the City Runs on Two Clocks

BASEL - Art Basel opened to ticket holders on Thursday at Messe Basel after two preview days. The halls were already a practised machine: badges, water, a map that assumes you can walk. UBS banners reminded everyone who pays for the global name.

Trams toward the Messe ran extra services. A few residents treated the week as a reason to leave town. More treated it as a reason to book a table before the collectors did.

The other Basel, still a port

Barges did not pause for paintings. That split is the city's charm and its complaint. Both clocks are on time in their own way.